Replacement engine for a B-Series AC

[Nick]

My girlfriend's father has An Allis Chalmers "B" series tractor sitting in the yard. I know its a "B" series looking at the photos on this site.By looking at pictures of other members tractors it is maybe a B-110, B-112 or a B-210. Or a whole different "B" series altogether. She said it has been sitting there for at least 15 years. I remember her father saying he blew the engine in it. It has not been covered at all. and has no attachments (he might have the deck somewhere in the yard.) I am sure if I ask her father he probably would just give it to me. The reason why I am posting this first before I actually ask him about the tractor is because I need to know if it is worth fixing and what kind of replacement engine IE: Horsepower should I buy for this tractor? I prefer a briggs & stratton but any other brand would do. I mainly plan on using it to pull a small trailer around the yard and I would like to put a dozer blade on it. -Nick Stanchak

[HubbardRA]

Yes it is worth fixing up! My 61 Wards tractor is the most loved, and most used in my stable. We currently have a 14 Hp Kohler on it. With a little engineering, you can put nearly any engine you want on it. My family just loves the older iron.

[arjr111]

Hi Nick, the B110 and 112, used a single cylinder, cast iron, briggs, 10 or 12 HP. Replacement parts can be expensive. It cost me more than a hundred for just a new piston and rings on a 12hp. You may be better off just finding a used engine. They do come up on Ebay once and a while. Check link at bottom of page. Left 10HP.....Rignt 12HP [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/uploaded/arjr111/00_00001_25.JPG[/img] [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/models/ac_b-series.htm[/url]

[Nick]

Can it be any type of Horizonal Shaft engine? Does the shaft have to be keyed or threaded? Of course I would want it to be 10 HP or more. anything under 10 HP isn't worth it.

[arjr111]

As Rod stated you can adapt a Kohler (K241, K301) in it too. But, you will need to do a little creative fiddling. To get the Kohler shaft to line up with the drive line. The shafts of both the briggs and the Kohler are keyed. Before, I made any decision I would try to determine what is wrong with the original engine. Could be something relatively inexpensive to fix.

[Dutch]

quote:

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Originally posted by arjr111
Before, I made any decision I would try to determine what is wrong with the original engine. Could be something relatively inexpensive to fix.

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I agree with Art. Many times people just get tired of what they own. Some minor thing that goes wrong is used as a reason to buy something new.

[Nick]

Thanks all for the tips. Knowing him, the points probably went, thought it was something else and thats why he parked it for good. She said her father always leaves all his yard equipment outside except for his chain saw & weed whacker. (It's all covered with a tarp) There is a former cinderblock 10 x 20 horse barn/Stall at the edge of their 2 acre property that needs a new roof. I don't know why he dosen't fix it even if it was just used to store his newer tractor & lawn mower. I know I would. I got to find some one to pick it up for me, He probably would want it out of there the same day. Not that another week or so would make any difference since it has been sitting there for at least 15 years.

[thedaddycat]

Nick, while you might prefer a larger engine in youir tractor I can tell you that the Model 19 Briggs (7hp) is more than enough to tow a cart around the yard. My Simplicity Model 700 can handle most anything I do with it. This includes mowing(rotary or sickle bar), tilling, towing various non-powered implements, plowing(dozer or moldboard) and snowblowing just to name a few....... If you can find a parts tractor with a good engine(even if it's under 10 hp) you could be all set. Her father might even have one sitting around for you........ Good luck with it, let us know how you make out!!!

[dirtsaver]

Nick, while I prefer the larger hp engines myself, I agree with Kirk(daddycat) that the 7,8,9hp engines have plenty of power. IMHO an older 7hp cast iron is equal to todays 10hp aluminum throwaways. I say go for it! If nothing else you'll have a project to improve your skills and knowledge of these great tractors. Larry

[Roy]

Gang, More than 7.25 hp would be nice on my B-1 with 42" mower deck when the grass is tall. Running wide open (and I mean wide open with no governor action) in the hot summer for an hour or two is rough on air cooled engines. With normal grass height the 7.25 hp is adequate. For all other tasks (tilling, towing, plowing, etc.) the Model 19 has plenty of power.

[PatRarick]

Horsepower is one thing, but you also have to consider torque. I found that out this winter. My 18hp Vanguard does not have the torque that a 16hp cast iron Briggs single has. Sam and I discussed that this past winter on snowblowers. On the identical blower, his HB-116 (now Maynard's) handled the blower with much less problem than my 918. The long stroke and heavier flywheel is what accounts for most of the difference. The aluminum 7 horse and the cast iron 7 horse are both putting out 7 hp at 3600 rpm. With the lighter flywheel and shorter stroke of the 7hp aluminum engine, rpm's are lost quicker under load. As rpm's are lost, power drops quicker and the engine seems to have less power overall. Pat

[BLT]

Pat, It's not so torque as lugging ability. Any time you have an oversqaure engine, bore larger then stroke, you have a much narrower band to lug the engine down for that hang in power you're looking for. Both engines probably have the same torque but at different RPM bands and the long strokers will hang in longer then the short strokers as they haven't peaked in torqued yet. Been selling Diesel power all my life, and when you compare curves to one or the other, the long strokers have more hang in ability. The same also applies to spark fueled engines.

[PatRarick]

Bob, I understand what you are saying. That's basically what I was trying to get across, but I am not very articulate most (all?) of the time.;) Pat

[BLT]

quote:

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Originally posted by PatRarick
Bob, I understand what you are saying. That's basically what I was trying to get across, but I am not very articulate most (all?) of the time.;) Pat

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Pat, knew what you were stating, just clairifing it a bit. It's when your trying to get a 350 Ton mine haul truck up a 4% grade or better at X miles an hour with a 3000 HP engine these numbers and curves are real important. Most(Most all) people who buy garden equipment don't pay attention to that. And if I wasn't doing it for a living, I guess I wouldn't either. And that's probably why your 23's will be a good match for you Swishweer wanabees.:D

[PatRarick]

Bob, they're SIMPLICITY wannabe's! [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/simplicity/New_in_1969/trailing_mower.htm[/url] Pat :D:D:D:D

[BLT]

quote:

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Originally posted by PatRarick
Bob, they're SIMPLICITY wannabe's! [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/simplicity/New_in_1969/trailing_mower.htm[/url] Pat :D:D:D:D

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Doh!!!!!:(:(Sorry

[Glacier]

Nick, I have a 12 hp. briggs that I got with a parts tractor that I bought for some parts I needed, the guy I got it from says it runs I haven't had time to check it out, but I know the motor is complete with the exception that the air filter and cover are missing. If you would be interested let me know. Jeff

[goatfarmer]

I put a newer Briggs 11hp purchased from EBay on a 3410 Landlord that had an old cast iron Briggs 10 HP on it. It took very few modifications to get it to fit. Shouldn't be any harder with your AC.