B210 Vari-drive belt

[Al 6]

Hi, The variable speed belts typically don't stretch, but if they seem to be getting longer it is usually because they are wearing on the sides and ride deeper in the pulleys. This can also happen if the variable speed linkage is getting worn. It is important to have it set up by the book, but if you have wear in all of the linkage, you can compensate some with the turnbuckle on the linkage between the pulleys. The belt stop on the bottom idler should be set so that when you depress the clutch this bracket sort of grips the belt between the idler and the stop and "brakes" the belt. If it is rotated too far forward it will put a "bend" in the belt and effectively shorten it and not let it release like it should. If this belt stop is not set right when the clutch is depresssed the belt will continue to "coast" causing gear grinding when trying to shift gears. If this isn't very clear, yell and I'll try to do better. Good luck. Al jualed@n-connect.net This will probably post as Guest.

[Al 6]

Me again. When I bought my 3112v new in 1970, I commercial mowed with it. It always had a problem with gringing gears when shifting wide open. This is due to the Flywheel effect of the driven pulley. Even with the linkage set properly. I solved this problem on my tractor and several others, by making a brake for the pulley. I made a little 90 Degree bracket about 2 1/2 inches on each leg and a pivot at the angle. On one of the arms I put a small pad and riveted a piece of brake lining on it [about 1 1/4" square] I then mounted the bracket on a pivot with the arm with the lining ahead of the pivot, and positioned so it would bear on the inside flange of the driven pulley. The other arm was then pointing accross the tractor toward the left side. I then hooked a fairly stiff spring from the clutch release linkage to this arm so when the clutch was released it pulled the brake pad against the back side of the rear pulley. I then ran a small spring back from the arm to pull it back away from the pulley when the clutch was engaged. It worked very well and wasn't that hard to make. A brake like this will solve all of the gear grinding problems and will let you shift with the engine wide open. If this is confusing yell and I'll try to clarify it. I have probably done half a dozen of these and all worked well, but it has been nearly 30 years ago. Good luck, Al

[Guest]

I think I need a new vari-drive belt, the old one appears to be to long or possibly the wrong one. Could someone post the lenght of the belt please? Thanks

[Kent 435]

Thought I'd demonstrate how to do this for yourself: According to the handy-dandy X-Reference table (to find Simplicity equivalent, which is a Model 3210V, Mfr # 990568 or 990569) and then the Belt Reference in the Parts section, the Varidrive belt is 54.0" long and Simplicity Part # 164080. Note that the part # may have been superceded by a newer part #, but a dealer should be able to take it from there.... I would STRONGLY recommend you buy an original Simplicity belt... They're engineered tough just for these drive belt applications. May cost a few $$ more up front, but will save headaches later, since they'll last MUCH longer. Not even sure if you could get an aftermarket belt for this one, since it's 1" wide according to the Belt Reference.... BTW, I also own a B-210 Varidrive... I'm getting ready to replace my drive belt before spring, and have already priced them. (This is the only belt I haven't replaced on it.) They weren't all that expensive, considering their uniqueness. Kent