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PatRarick

Finally finished...

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PatRarick
...but three weeks overdue. My newest project. Had to try them out and get them dirty before I took any pictures.

Works like a dream. 11 1/2 foot cut. Pat

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dieselman
That’s a great looking machine. What did you use for engines they look like brigs? I have been thinking about building a trail mower and that is a way I haven’t thought about. I pulled a push lawn mower behind one for a wile and it didn’t work to bad but was kind of small.

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Guest
Wow, heres a guy that dont mess. Nice Pat, how wide a swath???????Sheesh! Doug

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PatRarick
Neil, both are Briggs. One's a 23 and the other a 23D. I was a little concerned with 9hp on a 48" deck, but no problem. My initial test was on my neighbor's abandoned farm site. Lots of last year's growth. Wet and 6" tall and I buzzed right through. Doug, they overlap 3", so the cut is 11 1/2 ft. I built the hitch with different holes to accommodate any combination of 42 or 48" decks on trailers or tractor, and can overlap from 2" to 6" in one inch increments. Also built a "half hitch" so I can have two tractors each pulling one mower if the need arises. Pat

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arjr111
Real nice Pat. I guess you pull start from the back of the engine. How hard is that? Did you do the frames from scratch? The part with the swivel wheel looks a little like a trailer hitch, that has been reversed. Great idea!!

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PatRarick
Art, I built these from scratch. The starter pulley is in the original engine's location, on the flywheel, towards the rear of the frame. When Simplicity built these units, the starter pulley was on the rear of the engine(front of the trailer), bolted to the mower drive pulley, and it protruded through the belt guard at the front of the trailer. I thought about going this route, but it works fine the way it is. Simplicity also had a fixed screen covering the air intake of the flywheel, so I assume that was their reason for relocating the starter pulley to the other side. Though I thought I was finished, my neighbor has me thinking about adding a linear actuator for the deck lift, and electric clutches on the engines. I may have to go back to work. Pat

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Chris727
NICE! I need something like that for my yard, instead of running the B110 with the 42" I could pull two extra 48"s, althogh Its probably harder to turn the 11 foot rig, and it is probably harder to negotiate trees and such but that thing could sure cut the open field fast! Will you be posting plans? I'll bet it was still cheaper to make that than to buy a 44" trail mower from a farm and home store! -Chris

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Brent_Baumer
Speaking of cost, Orchelns and TSC now have the Swisher 60" trail mowers for $1200 plus tax again. Last year they were almost $1400. I expect Pat's setup is much cheaper than that. Nice job. Brent

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PatRarick
Since this was a project for myself, I didn't keep track of time so labor is questionable. The materials for each completed frame were under $125 each. Hitch materials were under $40. The engines I bought dirt cheap. They were on older smaller grain augers that I picked up at auction sales. I paid $5.00 for one, and $10.00 for the other. The $5.00 one was in great shape. I only cleaned and painted that one. The $10.00 one, I re-ringed. By the way, did you know that old grain augers make excellent mobile, adjustable height basketball hoop stands? :D The decks are from working tractors and can be used on the tractor or trailer as my needs require. As to negotiating trees and other obstacles, it's pretty easy if you make one pass around everything with just the tractor first. This is not a problem if I'm alone, as the entire setup can be installed or removed from the tractor in under a minute and a half. Hook the hitch over the rear lift shaft (or dummy shaft), install four pins, hook up the trailers with one pin each, hang the trip ropes in the rope guides and you're good to go. It's quicker and easier to attach the setup than it is to attach the mower deck to the tractor. Pat

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JoeJ
Pat, Great looking job!!! Been thinking of doing the same, but will go with just 1. With your 3 point hook up, and non steering front wheels on the trailer mowers, how does it do on cornering? [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/uploaded/JoeJ/joej_sig2.gif[/img]

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PatRarick
Joe, they trail and corner fine. The hitch itself is rigid, but the trailers are free to turn independantly. With the rear caster wheel, it's really no different than pulling a two wheel trailer, unless you need to back up. Realistically, you don't want to be in a situation where you have to back up more than a couple of feet. They trail and steer well enough that you don't leave skips between the mowers on turns. I found, unless your lawn is fairly flat, you need to weight the front end and the rear wheels with only one mower. I have a few creek banks in my yard. With just one mower, the side draft affects handling. When you turn toward the trailer (turning uphill), you keep going straight ahead. When you turn away from the trailer (going uphill) you lose traction on the rear wheel opposite the trailer so you stand there and spin. The load is even with two mowers so steering is not a problem. May need rear wheel weights to climb some of the steeper areas though. Pat

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JoeJ
Pat, Damn, now I see that. That is one, no two, fine jobs!! But, now that age old question. Does this come under a hack job? hehehehe Guess I gotta get my Hobart welder running again. I have so many projects to do. And wife asked the other day about more sheperds hooks. I think I've made her dozens already!! Not to mention a 3/4's finished CAD DIGGER. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/uploaded/JoeJ/joej_sig2.gif[/img]

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PatRarick
Joe, I'd imagine it would come under a "hack job" heading. After all, I cut up and bent one perfectly good 20' length of 2" channel, as well as cutting up several other perfectly good pieces of iron! :D:D

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PatRarick
Just noticed that I didn't have the marker on for the first photos. Got to have a way to know where to drive. The old eyeballs ain't as good as they used to be.

Pat

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