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srwven

Rear lift and cable questions

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srwven
I finally got a rear lift for my 7014. It didn't come with a cable so I am going to the hardware store for one. My only question is can I make it too long, ie, allowing the lift(and thus implement) to travel too far down? Forgive me if it is a stupid question but I have not used an implement with simplicity's yet. And if someone could measure a cable length I would forever be indebted to you.

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Dutch
I don't have a cable in stock that I can measure, but making one is easy. 1) Make and attach one end to the cross shaft. 2) Route it through the pulley and guides back to the rear lift. 3) Place your lift lever (or electric, or hydro) in the lowest position. 4) Thread the other end of the cable through the rear lift hole or clevis (whatever your using). 5) Place rear lift implement socket slightly below horizontal. 6) Pull slack out of cable and clamp in place. 7) Leave a few inches of extra (dead) cable so you can fine tune if necessary.

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JP
I'm not sure if it's the same cable for all the 3000-7000 and 7100 machines. You might raise the lift up all the way & measure from the eye around the pulley to the lift arm in back, just before it hits the seat pan. This should be the 'Max' up position. I wouldn't think you'd care about max down (It will sort it's self out). Good Luck! JP

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Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
You should be able to get a cable from your dealer with the adjustmet rod and clevis on it.
Yes, you can ($25-$40). MIY = under $5. What hurts is when I buy OEM, snap it on first use, and wind up with a MIY anyway.

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srwven
quote:
Originally posted by dutch
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
You should be able to get a cable from your dealer with the adjustmet rod and clevis on it.
Yes, you can ($25-$40). MIY = under $5. What hurts is when I buy OEM, snap it on first use, and wind up with a MIY anyway.
That's exactly why I am making it. I called just to see if they even stock the rear lift and surprisingly he had 3. But he wanted $185 for the kit! Picked up a used one for next to nothing albeit without the cable (had the rod for a 3310). Thanks for the help guys.

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Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
Dutch I hate to admit it but "Your absolutely right"
Why do you "hate to admit ir"? You sound like Judy. You know, even a broken clock is right twice a day. BTW - Except for used, MIY, and emergencies, I always go with OEM for filters, belts, and other parts. OEM is cheaper in the long run.

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