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Well I just went out and purchased the oil for the spring oil change on my B12. I have for years-used Pennzoil 30w four-cycle engine oil for air-cooled engines. I have also used BS, Quakerstate, and Western Auto four cycle engine oil. No one mentioned these oils in the discussion on engine oils. Does anyone else use this type of oil in their tractors? Tim
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4-25-99 @ 22:25


I used QS 10w-40 in my B-1 for twenty some years.
A couple of years ago I switched to Sweco paraffin oil.
It seemed to "free up" the engine and it ran better.
Both oils worked fine and I didn't had any problems
with sludge or excess wear. I rebuilt my engine this
spring (B & S Model 19D). The crank and plain bearing
on the flywheel side had a few wear ridges but the
other end of the crank, bearing on that side, the crank
throw, and rod bearing all still still look like new.

Pennsylvania (sp?) crude oil is used in Pennzoil and QS.
This crude has a better natural viscosity index than
oils from the rest of the world. Hence, they hold up
better when the viscosity improvement additives start
breaking down.

A couple of years back I switched all my cars from QS
to Mobile 1 synthetic oil. It works great! In my daughter's
1985 Toyota van she noticed her engine ran cooler and
quieter. I plan on putting Mobile 1 in my B-1 when I
drain the break-in oil (QS 10W-40) after around 10 hours
of run time. Will let you know how it works if I can
remember to do so.

I would have never believed Mobile 1 synthetic oil could
make so much difference in how an engine runs if I had
not have tried it. My theory is the synthetic oil has
less internal molecular friction. I know it has better
capillary action and will make leaky seals and gaskets
a little worse. It also sticks to parts better so it
reduces cold start wear which is the most damaging time
for an engine.

Enough. Hope this helps.

Roy L. Pope
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I was burning Quaker State and Valvoline 10W30 especially in the hot weather
at the rate of about a Quart every 10 hrs.of use.I
switched to Quaker State semi-synthetic with great
results. I feel you get the best of both worlds with Semi.

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  • 1 year later...
Hi Tim, I use the Pennzoil during the summer months. I started using it about 2years ago as the oil that I was using was no longer available in my area. It was wolf's 30w and I had been using it for about 12 years. I really can't tell the difference between the pennzoil and other brands that I have tried. Its just that the pennzoil happens to be easy for me to get. Now during the winter months I use Mobile 1 "yes thats write"->5w30 and have had great success with it. Now the reason I use the Mobile 1 during the extremly cold is that it does not thicken like conventional oils. Thus upon engine start up I have almost imediate lubercation. I also have been useing Mobile 1 for about the same time period of 12 years. One of hardest things on any engine is the start up period while the engine waits for the oil to totally enter the oil galleys and thus reaching all of the bearing surfaces and alike. With the spash system that engine has to wait a long time when it is 0-degrees or colder for the oil to warm up,mean while there is excessive wear in my opion to warrent the use of either full synthetic or semi-such as durablend. The same goes for my bevel gear box and my trans. They both get semi-synthenic in the winter months. But come spring and the tempertures are about 50-degrees I change everything back to conventional.I know there might be some members that disagree with my way but it has worked for me. I also change my engine oil about every 15 to 20 hours of use. I figure oils alot cheaper then a new engine. Also Briggs and Stratton recommeneds for our engines below 40deg.F to use 5w20 oil and if not available use 10w oil diluted with 10% kerosene. So I figure that I surely can't from what I learned and from my experience be hurting my engine. By the way my engine doesn't use anymore oil now then it did 12 years ago. And thats a fact from happyjack-->jackl<--
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