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Rahbas

Simplicity 6216 Transmission question

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Rahbas
Hello, This is my first post but I've been reading the boards for about 3 weeks. This site has helped me with my decision on my latist purchase. I had about $1200.00 to spend on a new mower (seen some at Lowe's) but decided to go with something that will probably last longer than the disposable mower:). I picked up a Simplicity 6216 for my $1200.00 and got quite a bit of attachments with it. I really like the tractor but have a problem changing gears. When it's running, with the pedel all the way down I really have trouble getting it into gear. Sometimes it's 2nd sometimes reverse. Those are the two I use most, but any can be a problem. The other day with the tractor engine off I noticed that without depressing the clutch it goes right into all gears but as soon as I depress the clutch things get difficult. This is the variable 3-speed transmission. I've followed the instructions in the manual on how to adjust the variable speed and clutch but it didn't seem to help. Oddly enough adjusting the brakes (next step in the manual) seemed to help some but the problem is still there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all of you because I've found a new hobby. Not sure that my wife understands though:)

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Roy_Wooten
Are you comming to a complete stop or are you allowing it to roll slowly? The transmision in these are a non syncronized type, they do not shift well sitting still. If the gears are grinding and you know the belts are adjusted properly check the following. 1. Are the belts the proper ones or are they a close enough match from the auto parts dealer? 2. The drive pulley on the engine. When you press the clutch the belts loosens slightly, but for the clutch action to work the bottom flange of the drive pulley must spin freely. 3. The variable pulley. Make sure that the center flange slides back and forth freely. These are the issues I had with my 6216 after I purchased it. After correcting these she drives great. Roy Wooten

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Rahbas
Yes, I forgot to mention while sitting still if I don't give wait 3 seconds after depressing the clutch the gears will grind. I've been only changing gears when stopped. I wasn't aware you could change them while moving. Thanks for the replies, it should get me moving in the right direction.

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BLT
It sounds like the 'ole belt guide clearance to engine pulley syndrome'. Double check the guide clearance of the two guides on the engine pulley. It should be around 1/8" max. If it is greater the belt won't disengage. Post your seven digit tractor number. Most likely we can tell you what page in your operators manual to follow. On the surface, that appears to be your problem.

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BLT
Go to page 22 of your operators manual. Item "C" belt stops or guides. The book says to put them back at oringinal location. These two guides have been have been many topics of conversation with vertical shaft engines. With the clutch engaged, adjust those two stops to 1/16 to 1/8 inch gap.

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Rahbas
Well, Today was a bad day. I found out that the belt stop has about a 1/4 inch gap. Someone made a homemade stop and it doesn't get real close. The worst part is when I put it back on it wouldn't tighten up. The stop attaches to one of the motor mounts and the hole has been monkeyed with and is pretty much stripped out. I imagine a Heli-coil might work but there is an awful amount of vibration there. Another solution may be to use a stud type arrangement. Never the less, I'm calling the place I got the tractor to see if they can order the stop and fix it for me. I hope closing up the gap helps with the shifting. From what I've heard here it sounds like it may be the fix I'm looking for. Oh, I did get it tight enough to still use the tractor, although one has to be patient to get it in gear.

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Rahbas
Well, I found out the rear idler pulley was locked up and the center sheeve wasn't moving very freely. After fixing these things it helped with the getting into gear part although it still doesn't go in everytime. The only problem I have left is there is still gear grinding unless I wait about 5 seconds after I depress the brake/clutch. Would adjusting the brake help any here? I'm trying to figure out how to get the rotation to stop quicker so changing gears can go a little faster. I found the locked up pulley by looking under the tractor while it was running. Also looking under there the belt stops on the engine pulley are working fine and stopping the drive belt from turning. Thanks again for all the help

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BLT
You might have to go thru your variator adjustments again and then close down on your engine belt guides. That's all that I can tell you. Adjusting the brake won't help you for belt disengagement. The brake drum is on a different shaft and it doesn't aid in your problem when you are standing still.

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Kokomo
I am new to the Simplicity addiction. I bought a 6211 with mower deck and tiller for $575.00 and have a total of about $850.00 in it now. The only reason I bought it was because it had a tiller, however if I cannot find a Hydro transmission for it, I am going to have to get another tractor, probably a 7100 series, with a hydro transmission and tiller. The problem is that I want to use it for landscaping and I can not go slow enough to use it close to building and in flowerbeds. The tiller and tractor would be fine for garden use I think. I really like the tractor and tiller, as it works great in all other respects. Can anyone help! I have been following your post. I have/had the same symptoms that you described about being hard to get into gear; however mine was also had to shift with or with the engine running. I had no grinding problem. At the same time my tractor was having an another problem; that is, finding the neutral switch under the seat. I finally put a jumped around the switch; this is not a good thing as the tractor has taken of several times when I started it. I did not see the connection until today between the two problems. I used degreaser on the shift linkage and then sprayed it with silicon lubrication; this helped the shifting some. Next I clean and lubricated the electrical switch under the seat and have very little problem getting it into gear since. I re connected the electrical switch and it now works fine. About three times out of three dozen shifts it was hard to go in gear, all I did was let out on the clutch and it went in gear with no problem (this maybe a normal situation?). This form has been a great help to me. Bob Hollis Kokomo IN

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Rahbas
BLT, I will try that. I forgot to mention I took the variator pulley assembly completely off the tractor and found another somewhat serious problem. The variator pulley assembly attaches to two pivoting brackets. One of them was not moving freely at all. Once I cleaned it up and put anti-seize on the shafts it moved great. I'm going to try to get this grinding problem fixed. Also I still have occasional problems getting it into gear but I was told in the post and by the dealer that is somewhat normal on these old transmission types. In fact my dealer told me about the letting out on the clutch trick. Once I find out exactly what's causing this problem, I'll post my results here.

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Rahbas
Well after adjusting and then adjusting some more, I’m finding that I can’t make this situation any better. I do have a couple more questions if anyone can help. With a helper I found out that when pushing in on the clutch everything, belts, variator and all pulleys continue to turn for 2-6 seconds depending on the speed of the engine. The engine belt stops are set right. It seems that momentum is keeping everything moving. I also noticed that the rear belt from variator to transmission has a cogged look about it on the small side of the belt. It seems I’ve seen Gates automotive belts that look like this. Could the belt be a problem? The tractor doesn’t seem to slip under load.

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Kent
You may have found the problem with the belt. I've not seen a Simplicity belt like you describe. Most of those type belts that I've seen have a very high rubber content, while the Simplicity belts usually have a very high cord/cloth content, which makes them work good in applications where clutching and backside idler pulleys are used... cloth will slip on a steel pulley much better than rubber. Are the belt surfaces on the pulleys clean and shiny? That could cause drag also...

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andy gartner
Hi Rahbas, I put a reply meant for you, under Buster's 'Transmission Swap' in this forum. Was wondering in short, if the 6200 series is a good basic tractor for only cutting grass? Thanks, Andy

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